1. Mix a small amount of mix of filling on a pure wooden plate or a piece of cardboard (economically spending a hardener). Follow instructions of producers on packing, otherwise filling will harden incorrectly. |
2. Using the applicator, apply filling paste on the prepared surface. |
3. Carry out by the applicator on the surface of filling to reach a desirable contour and to balance the surface of filling. |
4. When the initial level and a contour are reached, stop work with paste. If you continue, then paste will stick to the applicator. |
5. Continue to apply thin films of paste with 20-minute intervals until the level of filling precisely corresponds to the level of surrounding metal. |
6. When filling hardens, its surplus can be removed by means of a file. Further it is necessary to use an emery paper, gradually increasing its granularity, having begun with paper with an indicator of granularity of 180 units and having finished with waterproof paper with an indicator of granularity of 600 units. Always reel up an emery paper on rubber or wooden whetstone, otherwise the surface of filling will not be completely flat. During grinding of a surface of filling the waterproof emery paper with an indicator of granularity of 600 units needs to be moistened periodically in water. It will help to reach very smooth surface. |
7. Now the ring of naked metal which, in turn, has to be surrounded with the good intact paint has to surround the field of repair. Wash out the field of repair by water until all dust which remained after grinding is not removed. |
8. On all smoothed-out surface apply a thin film of a soil covering. It will help to find all defects on the surface of filling. |
9. Correct the found defects by means of fresh filling or a glaze and once again smooth out a surface an emery paper. |
10. Repeat the procedure of putting primer and filling until you are not satisfied with quality of a surface of filling and an edge of paint. |
11. Wash out a surface clear water and let's it dry completely. |
12. Now the field of repair is ready to painting. |
13. Coloring by dispersion needs to be carried out at warm, dry, windless weather when in air there is no dust. These conditions can be reached if you have an access to the big production room. However if you have to work in the open air, it is necessary to choose day of painting very carefully. |
14. If you work indoors, sprinkle water a floor. It will help you to beat dust which differently can rise in air. |
15. If the field of repair is on one panel of a body, close all surrounding panels. It will help you to minimize small discrepancy in color of paint. |
16. Decorative details of finishing, such as chromic slips, door handles and so on, it is also necessary to disguise or remove. For masking use an adhesive tape and several layers of paper. |
17. Before dispersion carefully shake up paint, and then be trained to spray it to learn to do it correctly. |
18. Apply a thick layer of primer on the repaired surface. It is better to apply several thin films, than one thick. |
19. By means of an emery paper with granularity of 600 units smooth out the surface of primer until it does not become very smooth. During this operation the processed surface has to be moistened with water carefully. The emery paper needs also to be lowered periodically in water. |
20. Let's primer dry before drawing additional layers. |
21. Spray paint on the top layer, increasing its thickness by drawing several layers. Begin to spray paint from the center of the repaired area, and then, using roundabouts, process all repaired surface, and also about 5 cm of surrounding paint. |
22. Remove all masking material in 10–15 minutes after drawing the last paint coat. |
23. Let's new paint dry, at least, two weeks, and then by means of very thin grinding structure make imperceptible transition from new paint to initial. |
24. In conclusion of work put a wax layer. |